50@50 – The Wallowa Mountains, OR
It all started in the Wallowas. From here, Chief Joseph led 750 people into and across Idaho to Montana to escape the army. The town of Joseph is where he ultimately came to rest. I arrived in time for Joseph Days, its annual Rodeo and Parade featuring riding stars, of course, but also tribal courts. Many Nez Perce as well as those from neighboring tribes (neighboring being a relative word) travel long distances to attend. The music is Country AND Western, and performers of national recognition participate in the evening concerts.
To better understand the town, one has to drive through the surrounding landscape. Much of the land is agricultural and its local products, as in other parts of Oregon, are celebrated. It’s a small community, with some great restaurants, a nearby brewery (next town over) and even award winning distillery from local grain and berries. The Wallowa mountain backdrop is breathtaking.
Compared to the Alps in appearance, they are the most stunning range you’ve never heard of. Most of the peaks as are protected as part of the Eagle Cap Wilderness. Only a couple miles south, Wallowa Lake is “cited by geologists as one of the most perfect glacial moraines in the world.”[1] This place, both the physical landscape and the way of seeing and understanding the world, is what Chief Joseph tried to preserve for his people.
The lodge at the end of the lake was built in 1923. I felt like I was transported into the 1950’s as I watched people splashing, and laughing, on the shore and on the floating decks. WE instead of Wii. I met a couple who have been coming here, first as honeymooners now as grandparents, for over 50 years!
Just beyond the lodge, a tramway climbs 4000 feet to the top of Mount Howard. Well maintained, and crowded in July, pathways crisscross the 8200′ peak for views in every direction. Strolling along all of them is only about three miles. Usually in June, the peak is chilly, but ablaze in color. This year, late snowfalls (Joseph had snow June 16) kept the hills covered until nearly July, then melted quickly! I wanted to take one of the many hikes into the wilderness from the mountain’s base, but the subsequent flooding from snowmelt has made them impassible.
The wilderness can also be accessed from the Wallowa mountain loop to the east or from the west via unpaved forest roads. I have hiked the western interior, and it is one of the most remote areas I have ever visited. Virtually no signs – a wilderness is not a national park – and almost no other people. Outfitters offer a variety of options, from hiker drop-offs, to guided luxury adventures. Horseback tours are very popular; they provide the ability to travel deeper into the wilderness area. It doesn’t take much to transcend time here.
Over the past 30 years, Joseph has morphed into a well supported arts center, with four bronze foundries, a high percentage of visual artists and a large annual art fair. In August, Joseph hosts a Blues and Brews festival attracting top blues artists and thousands of fans. All of this in a community of 450 households. Some places are thought of as sacred by its native people; perhaps this place really is.
[1] Wallowa county visitors guide, 10.