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50@50 – Blackwater & Hawk’s Nest, WV

On this exploratory road trip, Maryland was my delightful surprise; West Virginia was my purpose.  For me, West Virginia has represented a mythical place – the Idaho of the east – made up of hardy people with tenacity, fortitude, tradition and character.  So much so, that when Virginia seceded, those living in northwestern portion of the state seceded from the secessionists!

I sought to explore the heritage and culture of the Appalachians. Native human history is more definitive in this region, because more evidence remains. The first native settlers in West Virginia’s Highlands were the Adena people, also known as the Mound Builders.[†] They arrived about 1000 BC, probably from the southeast because they knew how to make pottery. What brought them here is speculative. Over time, some of their cone shaped mounds became extremely large – up to seventy high at the Grave Creek Mound in Wheeling, WV – and appear to have been burial mounds. They became master artisans of native stones, mica, quartz crystals and lead crystals from the Southern Highlands, and copper obtained from the Upper Great Lakes region. Expansion of Adena earthworks and village inhabitation seem to have stopped around 200 AD.  Most of the larger Adena mounds are now publicly owned, and therefore, protected. The biggest concentration of Adena mounds is in southern Ohio, but may also be found in West Virginia, Kentucky, Tennessee and Indiana.[‡]

By the late 1500s, several thousand Hurons occupied present-day West Virginia. During the 1600s, tribes from the Iroquois Confederacy drove the Hurons from the land; by the early 1700s, tribes from the east, including the Shawnee, Mingo, and Delaware, also moved into present-day West Virginia.  As the number of settlers in the region grew, both the Mingo and the Shawnee move further inland.  [§]

A majority of the settlers into West Virginia, much of central Appalachia really, immigrated from the Scottish lowlands, Ireland, and northern England. Referred to as Scotch-Irish, political and religions conflict, famine and poverty drove these people to seek a new life in America. Those arriving in New England faced intolerance and discrimination, so many headed south and west. The hilly terrain allowed for some agriculture and stock grazing, but limited the size of farms. For large areas in Appalachia, subsistence farming was the backbone of the economy until the 1950’s.  Relative to other areas in the east, many communities remained virtually isolated through much of the 20^th century. In the1930’s one-third of the Appalachian population “were ill-clad and ill-fed and ill-housed”. In 1964, one-fifth remained in the poverty group as President Johnson launched his war on poverty[**].

With the advent of coal mining in the 19^th century, Welsh immigrants were brought in for their expertise. As in Pennsylvania, coal has shaped the culture of this land. The industry continues to stir controversy, especially as interest in West Virginia’s natural resources and tourism grow. Along the highways, especially the interstate, 21^st century mono-americanism is spurring development and construction.

The six West Virginia state parks I visited exceeded expectations. The natural beauty of this state is breathtaking, so I hope economic growth and development doesn’t come too fast!  I stayed in park lodges at Blackwater Falls in the northeastern part of the state Hawk’s Nest near the center. The lodges, cabins and picnic areas, built by the CCC during the 1930’s, are well cared for and destinations in themselves. Hiking over 15 miles, most of the individual trails I took were short, just 1-3 miles each.

Central West Virginia has over 80 miles of trails. The Gorge Rim Trail, right outside our lodge at Hawk’s Nest on the New River Gorge was geologically impressive.  Beginning just behind the picnic area, the trail runs just under the rim of the gorge – hidden from view by the lush foliage unless you’re on the trail itself – and follows the path of the river for 1.7 miles. The railroad runs along the edge of the river, and with no other signs of civilization, it is easy to imagine the scene a century earlier.  Leading up to an interpretive overlook, the lodge is amazingly only ¼ mile east on a trail parallel to Highway 60.

Another less spectacular, but very interesting, series of interlocking trails are close to the old railroad town of Thurmond. The Rend trail runs along an abandoned section of the C & O railway line. Predominantly level, the full trail crosses five railroad trestles. We detoured to the First Baptist Church of Thurmond – entirely encased by the forest.  We had a tough time peering in, but the church doesn’t look to be in disrepair, in spite of limited accessibility on a steep hillside. Heading down a steep and rocky 1/3 mile Arbuckle trail, we connect to the fairly level Southside trail with great views of the river and largely abandoned town. With all the interlocking trails here, one could go as far as you desire. We hiked about six miles in a little less than two hours.

As with many of the places I explore, I want to return. How has the land defined the culture? The state is not made up of rich fertile valleys; the land requires hard work and tenacity. A major sector of the region’s economy is literally the land itself – coal; historically, the railroad was its vein to the outside world. The people here revere this land, and its wild beauty. One state park ranger told me they try to keep it a secret.