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50@50 – The Wisconsin Glacier; WI

Ahh – this is my longest post to date!  It consists of three sites across the Wisconsin Ice Age Trail

The northern Midwest’s reputation, primarily as a frigid environment briefly visited by summers’ humid heat and mosquito infestations, is enough to discourage southern visitors from venturing north to this part of the country. Easterners and Westerners feel they already live in, or close to, idyllic environments, so why would they choose an escapade to Wisconsin, or its neighboring states?  Ever see a DK city guide for Dubuque, or Milwaukee?

Interestingly, I found this landscape, this origin of culture more subtle than, yet as fascinating as, superlative places such as Yellowstone or Yosemite. The environment possesses a strong magnetic pull on those who live here. I even knew someone who commuted from her home in Milwaukee to work in Dallas for 20 years because she didn’t want to actually move from Wisconsin! The region’s seasonal range belies its reputation.

Over the late summer and early fall, I spent two weeks exploring this surprising environment. The historical landscape and subsequent culture owes much to the last Ice Age, named the Wisconsin Stage (Würm in Europe). The glaciers rolled down and receded, leaving debris of boulders, sand, rocks as clearly as a flood leaves its traces beyond the upper banks of the riverbed. The ice carried its rocky tools can carved out the Great Lakes as well as thousands of smaller ones throughout the upper Midwest. The land was shaped and molded leaving topographical markers called Drumlins, Kames, Kettles and Moraines.

As the ice melted, some trees and plants re-established quickly, others re-arrived over centuries and established the thick forests this region is known for. Aquatic plants took root in and around newly formed lakes, and waterfowl migrated north. The ice age left layers of decomposing vegetation supporting unique plant life.[*]  Prairie grasslands interspersed with groves of Oak trees returned more slowly. The earliest Americans managed the forests and these vast savannahs with fire for thousands of years.

Against this backdrop, Europeans facing a series of famines and political uncertainties were drawn to this molded landscape and waterscape, first from France, then from Britain, German, Swiss and Belgian regions and Scandinavia. The immigrants applied their culture to the communities and skills to the industries for which the region is renowned. This began a chain enabling the building and feeding of this country. The logging of thick forests here created housing and infrastructure for thousands.[†] Rich mineral deposits contributed the industrial revolution in America. The agriculture in the upper Midwest led to its reputation as the nation’s breadbasket. The evidence that culture emanates from the physical landscape is unquestionable in these surroundings.

During the 1950’s grass roots efforts tried to establish a national park here in Wisconsin. In 1980, the National Park Service established the Ice Age Trail as one of a handful of National Scenic Trails. “The Ice Age Trail gives those who walk it the opportunity to understand the ancient geological history…as they appreciate its modern day serenity and beauty.”[‡]

Out of the 1000 mile trail planned, 300 miles have been certified by the NPS, and another 250 miles completed for hiking.  Based on the diversity of the areas, I chose to hike several short segments, along, and in the vicinity of, the Ice Age Trail, including Kettle Moraine (east), Devils Lake (central), and Interstate (west) State Parks.

 

Ice Age Trail – Wisconsin Dept. of Natural Resources

 

Kettle Moraine State Forest contains two large units, North and South with linkages and parks in between. The Ice Age trail in this area is among the longest and most contiguous. In the Northern Unit, it travels for 31 miles – the length of the forest.  The section I encountered was fairly easy and level.  However, the literature lists this as moderate as it follows eskers and descends into deep kettles. Being unfamiliar with this topography, I found going through the Visitor Center first really helped me understand what to look for.  From its parking lot, the Zillmer trails, are easy to more difficult and range from 1.2 miles to 5.4 miles.  Interlocking, it is easy to follow one trail for a while and shift to another trail for the return.  Remember earlier, I mentioned the reputation this part of the country has for mosquito infestations?  We were told that they’re usually gone by August. But we nearly had to abandon this part of the ice age trail because they were so bad.  Carry a long sleeve shirt and long pants with you regardless of the temperature, just in case.

Devils Lake State Park, south of the Wisconsin Dells, contains two segments of the Ice Age trail. Sauk Point is a moderate wooded grassy trail that runs between a highway parking lot and Parfrey’s Glen (a gorge area) Trail.  We chose the other portion which loops around two-thirds of Devil’s lake. Obviously it made sense to hike all the way around.  This hike, the East Bluff to Balanced Rock to the Board Walk to West Bluff  is moderate with small sections of difficult. While I believe this is a trail that most anyone could do with a couple months of time on the elliptical or stairmaster, proper footwear and enough water are a must. But the views are sooo worth it. The East Bluff Woods Trail and Tumbled Rocks Trail are easy, allowing one to hike all the way around with less stress on the knees. The advantage of Tumbled Rocks is it winds along the west edge of the lake.

 Interstate State Park, straddles the border of Minnesota and Wisconsin, about a half hour northeast of St. Paul. The St. Croix River, which connects these parks, was one of the first protected as a National Scenic Riverway in 1968. This land is the convergence of the traditional homelands of the Ojibwe (Chippewa), and Dakota nations. The Dakota reside in southern Minnesota; the Chippewa still live in the St. Croix valley. Amazingly, three biological communities, northern forest, eastern forest and prairie, converge here. The region is a fragile, but healthy, ecosystem.  Thus, concentration is placed on habitat preservation of the St. Croix’s diverse biological waterlife and wildlife. The Ice Age Trail’s terminus is just outside the Interpretive Center at the northeastern section of the Wisconsin side. I sought the most visible impact of the glaciers, and focused my hikes along the trails closer to the river where their melting waters carved a gorge of steep cliffs.  Four short trails provide the best view of the Dalles (the gorge) of St. Croix, with the shortest one .7 round trip; to do all of them is only about 3.7 miles. The Pothole trail reveals examples of where melting water and sand drilled impressions, which look like potholes, into the bedrock. The Summit Rock trail is a bit of a huff-puff trail with quite a few steps, but the views are oh-so-worth-it! The other two, the River Bluff and Echo Canyon Trails are accessible from the Lake Trail.

This exploration of the impact of the Ice Age on the landscape and how this has influenced the culture over time has been a fascinating journey –for my senses as well.  One may think that all forests sound alike, but the sound of place is as diverse as its appearance.  As a composer, my ears have perked to the songs of different birds, to the fluttering of different leaves, and the whoosh and hum of local grasses. I’ve experienced the thump and squush of overripe walnuts – a very different sound than Texas pecans – and the ping of tiny wild crabapples.

Understanding how the glaciers reshaped the land, and how people of responded to the land really exemplifies how cultural geography is way of seeing the world around us.  Hiking though a landscape, or canoeing through a waterway, forces us to slow down and observe through all our senses. Ultimately, we gain a better understanding of who we are.