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Between the town of Lolo and the Pass (Idaho border) the trail is pretty clear; the Corps bathed and camped at the Hot Spring and the springs are still enjoyed today.  My first stop is at Lolo Pass.  The Lewis and Clark and Nez Perce Trails are located about a mile away off of a forest road.  The 1805 trail winds down toward the Lochsa River where the expedition hoped to be able to navigate to Oregon.  I didn’t want to climb back up, so I drove down to the Powell Ranger station where a sign identifies the Corps’ campground in September 1805.  I expected too much. The idea of walking along the path experiencing the same landscape was more appealing than the ordinary ¾ mile walk itself.  However, the beauty and strength of the Lochsa River piercing through the Bitterroots quickly made up for my disappointment.   Because the river was not navigable, the expedition did have to hike back up to the ridge trail.

Determined to hike in the Bitterroots on a more challenging trail than a mere camp path, I  drove on, and  couldn’t help but wonder, “Where is everybody?”  This is the peak of summer vacation time, and I could count on one hand the number of cars I passed or saw stopped.

I parked at the Warm Springs trailhead.  After crossing the river, an NFS sign warned hikers that “This is a clothing optional area.  You may see nude hikers on the trail”.   I swear, I am not making this up!  How exciting!  The 1 ½ mile trail (one way) was great and moderately easy. Opening up to reveal the river and a nearby hot springs, I found a European family and a lone guy.  Everyone is clothed.  Hmmm.  Perhaps the sign is a joke.  I climbed a hill to another hot spring and found more nakedness than I really wanted to see.  The couple evidently wanted to be alone!  I quietly returned to soak in the clothing [Yes] optional hot spring.

The numerous hikes within the Clearwater Forest along Highway 12 provide those seeking a cultural connection to the past as good as can be expected 200 years later.  In the 1930’s the CCC carved out an unpaved forest service road along the ridges of the mountains on the ancient path which Lewis and Clark and the Nez Perce traveled.  Permits are required before traveling on these roads.

Places come alive as we experience them.  We gain insight into the knowledge and way of seeing that lives beyond names and dates of events.  The landscape of the Bitterroots are little changed in the 130 years since Chief Joseph’s band of Nez Perce fled toward Canada, or even in the 200 years since the Expedition of Lewis and Clark nearly starved here.  The topography hasn’t changed significantly.  The water still flows cold, the trees still smell like pines and firs, and we still can camp under the same stars that guided them.  Historic trails as these enable us to understand how the decisions made in the past affect our present culture.

 

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