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50@50 – Green Bay, WI

Think “Wisconsin” – what else comes to mind?  Fish and Fur, of course!

By the 16^th century, over fishing in the eastern Atlantic Ocean, and nearby seas, had nearly depleted European sources of Cod.  Fish was not only a food, but fishing represented a way of life.  As an official maritime activity – fishing was a necessary part of a sailor’s training.  As America was “discovered” by early explorers, they stumbled upon enormous populations of Cod.[*]  The French, among others, developed a seasonal fishing export business based out of the Atlantic’s northwest, in the Gulf of St. Lawrence.  During the course of the 16^th century, the French moved inland, and year-round settlements, including Montreal, were established.  Fishermen began to trade fish for furs to get through the harsh winters.  Originally fur trading was coordinated through various indigenous partners, but as diseases and intertribal wars reduced the number of trading partners, the French moved even further west.

First explored in the 1630’s, Green Bay was founded as Fort-de-la-Baie-des-Puants in 1669.  Within 30 years, the French had established trading posts, forts and/or missions on each of the Great Lakes.[†] Beaver was the primary pelt valued and in the many rivers and tributaries emptying into the bay and Lake Michigan, a large population thrived. By 1699, a fur glut contributed to a temporary ceasing of fur trading until 1713. Changing nationalities several times, the United States secured Green Bay in 1816. Sitting on the international fringe, the American military reorganized many of the forts for national security including Green Bay’s Fort Howard. In 1820, Camp Smith across the river was formed as the first American settlement west of Lake Michigan.[‡] Belgian Farmers began immigrating to the area in the 1850’s lured by Antwerp advertisements of farmland at $1.25 an acre and the promise of a French speaking population.[§]

Further up the bay, Belgians and Scandinavian immigrants, whose cultural connection with water ran deep, began settling the peninsula, now Door County.  Inhabited for about 11,000 years, the region was referred to as “Death’s Door territory” by the French. The water strait between Peninsula mainland and the island just beyond is very hazardous for navigating ships. This led to (and continues to cause) many shipwrecks and damaged vessels,hence the name.

The culture of place develops in layers, as an onion develops. Examining the historical geography, is like trying to unpeel those layers, only to find that some are missing, or are configured in a way difficult to decipher.   In examining how present and past culture derives from the landscape, this blog briefly attempts to show correlations, hopefully pointing the way to further exploration.

Culture is reflected in the values of its people. The people of the upper Midwest value the natural beauty of its carved landscape. Wisconsin has a plethora of hiking and biking trails, many of which winter as Nordic ski trails.[**] Just outside the city is the Fox River State Trail.  A former rail line, this easy 19 mile route (the northern section is along the Fox River) is a mix of asphalt and crushed rock along the waterway.  Unfortunately, a cold rain pelted the Green Bay area the day of my arrival, so I traveled up the peninsula to central Door County.

Near the town of Fish Creek, Peninsula State Park, founded in 1909, is a rocky bluff which juts out into bay of Green Bay.  It contains 20 miles of hiking trails with varying degrees of ease and difficulty.  Contrary to most parks, this park was once settled with about 35 Scandinavian families. An information board shows all the plots – how much was truly developed, I don’t know.  For the most part, nature has reclaimed the land.  Over 3700 acres are undeveloped.

I hiked 1.3 easy miles of the Sentinel path along the shore of the bay plus the 2 miles of the Eagle Loop. The Eagle loop, with its inspirational views, is listed as difficult, but primarily it’s rocky with just a few ups and downs. Sailboats are moored where fishing boats might have anchored. Erasing three hundred years, the French sailors and fur traders of so long ago experienced the same warm sun, chilly winds, choppy water and rocky shoreline as summer tourists do today.

But wait!  Wisconsin! Green Bay!!  Football??  Okay, this is the only blog in which I will address team sports. Fishing, agriculture and logging dominated the region. With Green Bay’s strategic position with access to both waterways and rail, Green Bay became a food processing hub. In 1919, the Indian Packing Company agreed to sponsor a local football team providing uniforms and use of its athletic field. Thus the Green Bay Packers were born. The team is the only community-owned franchise in American professional sports and has more than 100,000 shareholders.

What about the Cheese and Beer?? Isn’t that its legacy?? The real culture??  Next Blog…